美国时装样板设计与制作教程-上

**篇1 工作室The Workroom 2 人体模型与测量Mode I Form and Measurements3 绘制原型样板图Drafting the Basic Pattern Set第二篇4 省道的处理(原理#1)Dart ManipuIation(PrinciPIe#1)5 省道的设计(开花省、褶裥、扩展褶、抽褶)Designing With Darts (Tuck-Darts．Pleats，Flares，and Gathers) 6 造型分割线StyIeIines 7 加放松量(原理#2)Added Fullness(Pr InciPle#2) 8 育克、冒肩、细缝裥和缝褶Yokes，FIanges,Pin Tucks，and Pleat Tucks 9 轮廓线(原理#3)Contouring(PrinciPIe#3) 第三篇10 领子Collars 11 高领口BuiIt-Up Neckl ines 12 垂荡褶领Cowls 13 圆裙与瀑布状花边裙skirts／Circles and Cascades 14 袖子SIeeves 15 连肩袖、插肩袖、落肩袖、大袖窿袖Kimono，RagIan,Drop ShouIder．and Exaggerated Armho I es 337第四篇16 纽扣、纽孔与贴边Buttons，Buttonholes,and Facings 17 衩口与口袋PIackets and Pockets 索引 Index 1 工作室The Workroom样板制作的工具PATTERNMAKING TOOLS样板纸PATTERN PAPER样板制作的术语PATTERNMAKING TERMS样板与生产的术语PATTERN PRODUCT 1 0N TERMS我们过去的状况THE WAY WE WERE服装产品的制作APPAREL PRODUCT DEVELOPMEN成本计算表COST SHEET样板图表PATTERN CHART设计明细表DESION SPECIFICATIONS SHEET省道DART圆顺曲线、校正线和等分线BLENDING，TRUEING．AND EQUALIZING标注款式造型线STYLELINE GUIDES织物术语FABRIC TERMS样板经向丝缕线PATTERN GRAIN LlNE平衡线术语BALANCE Ll NE TERMS特殊情况SPECIAL lNFORIIATl0N2 人体模型与测量Model Form and Measurements谁是理想的标准体型WHO IS THE STANDARD IDEAL FIGURE工业化样板的规格PATTERN I NDUSTRY STANDARDS百货商店的规格DEPARTMENT STORE STANDARDS标准化的其他尝试OTHER ATTEMPTS AT STANDARDIZATl0N美国材料试验协会的标准ASTM STANDARDS标记术语LANDMARK TERMS术语缩写SYMBOL KEY测量术语MEASURING THE FORM测量围度CIRCUMFERENCE MEASUREMENTS水平线(HBL)HORIZONTAL BALANCE LINE(HBL)测量宽度HOR I ZONTAL MEASUREMENTS测量长度VERT I CAL MEASUREMENTS测量吊带STRAP MEASUREMENTS尺寸规格表STANDARD MEASUREMENT CHART3 绘制原型样板图Drafting the BasiC Pattern Set连衣裙原型样板THE BASIC DRESS FOUNDATl0N上衣前片样板草图FRONT BOD I CE DRAFT上衣后片样板草图BACK BOD I cE DRAFT适体的上衣样板FITTlNG THE BODICE合适的领口线FITTlNG THE NECKLINE合体的袖窿FITTING THE ARMHOLE裙子样板草图SKIRT DRAFT核对样板PREPAR I NG PATTERNS FOR TEST FlT袖子原型样板THE BASIC SLEEVE袖山吃势量SLEEVE CAP EAS袖子规格表SLEEVE MEASUREMENT CHAR袖子样板草图SLEEVE DRAFT调节袖子适合上衣袖窿ADJUST l NG SLEEVE TO ARMHOLE OF BODICE 53无缝份工具样板SEAMLESS WORKING PATTERNS完成样板COMPLET l NG THE PATTERN4 省道的处理(原理#1)Dart Manipulation(Principle#1)概述INTRODUCTl0N工具样板WORKlNG PATTERNS样板制作技术PATTERNMAKING TECHNIQUES设计分析三个较重要的样板制作原理 DESIGN ANALYSIS AND THE THREE MAJOR PATTERNMAKING PRINClPLES样板制作术语PATTERNMAK I NG TERMS适合度测试TEST FIT省道的处理DART MANlPULATl0N 单省道系列样板——剪切展开技术SINGLE-DART SERIES——SLASH-SPREAD TECHNIQUE单省道系列样板——旋转移动技术SlNGLE-DART SERIES——PIVOTAL-TRANSFER TECHN I OUE肩胛省THE SHOULDER DART 后领口省THE BACK NECK DART自评测试SELF-EVALUAT I ON TEST 双省道系列样板——剪切展开技术TWO-DARTSERIES——LASH-SPREAD TECHN I QUE 85双省道系列——旋转移动技术TWO-DARTSER I ES——PIVOTAL-TRANSFERTECHNlOUE 89样板评估练习SELF-EVALUAT I ON TEST 5 省道的设计(开花省、褶裥、扩展褶、抽褶)Designing with Darts(Tuck-Darts、Pleats，Flares．and Gathers)概述lNTRODUCTl0N一组等量省的变化DART CLUSTERS AND DART EQU I VALENTS一组渐变省和辐射省GRADUATED AND RADIATING DARTS平行省PARALLEL DARTS不对称省ASYMMETR I C DARTS相交省INTERSECTING DART相交省的设计变化I NTERSECT I NG DART DESIGN VARIATlONS6 造型分割线Stylel ines概述lNTRODUCTl0N传统公主线CLASSIC PRINCESS STYLELINE袖窿公主线ARMHOLE PR I NCESS STYLELINE拼缝线PANEL STYLELlNE7 加放松量(原理#2)Added Fullness(Principle．#2)加放松量：原理#2 ADDED FULLNESS：PRINCIPLE #2宽松衫的基本样板BLOUSON FOUNDATl0N8 育克、冒肩、细缝裥和缝褶 Yokes，Flanges，Pin Tucks，and Pleat Tucks上衣中的育克YOKES FOR BODICE冒肩FLANGES缝裥与细缝裥PLEAT TUCKS AND P I N TUCKS9 轮廓线(原理#3)Contouring (Principie#3)轮廓线：原理#3 CONTOURING：PRINCIPLE ＃3轮廓基准线样板THE CONTOUR GU I DE PATTERNS传统帝国线THE CLASSIC EMPIRE斜叠襟SURPLIcE(OR WRAP)DESIGNS露肩式OFF-SHOULDER DES I GNS露背式吊带胸衣HALTERS 10 领子Collas概述INTRODUCTl0N领子的术语COLLAR TERMS领座和翻折类型COLLAR STAND AND ROLL TYPES领子的分类COLLAR CLASSIFlCATIONS原型衬衫领的基本样板BASIC SHIRT COLLAR FOUNDATl0N铜盆领PETER PAN COLLARS海军领SAILOR COLLAR深开领口的领子COLLARS WITH DEEP OPEN NECKLINES立领MANDARlN COLLAR 189有领座的领子COLLAR WITH STAND有领座的宽领子WIDE COLLAR AND STAND远离颈部的领子和领座COLLAR AND STAND AWAY FROM THE BASIC NECKLINE领子与领座为一片的衣领ALIN-ONE COLLAR AND STAND翻折领ROLL COLLARS领子变化的设计COLLAR DES IOGN VARIATIONS11 高领口Built-Up Necklines高领口BUlLT-UP NECKLINES嵌片型带状领I NSET BANDS12 垂荡褶领Cowls垂荡褶领COWLS背部垂荡褶领BACK COWLS一片式垂荡褶袖窿ONE-PlECE ARMHOLE COWLS褶裥式垂荡褶领PLEATED COWLS夸张的垂荡褶领EXAGGERATED COWLS嵌片式垂荡褶领I NSET COWLS13 圆裙与瀑布状花边裙Skirts／CircIes and Cascades概述INTRODUCTION 裙子的长度sK I RT LENGTHS 四种裙子的基本样板 FOUR SKIRTFOUNDAT IONS 灵活多变的裙褶FLEXIBI LlTY 0F SKIRT DARTS 低腰裙LOW-WAlST SKIRTS 高腰裙GH-WAlST SKIRTS 准备拉链和腰头PREPARING ZIPPER AND WAISTBAND 基本腰头样板BASIC WAISTBAND 扩展褶裙(喇叭裙)FLARED SKIRTS腰部抽褶裙SKIRTS WITH GATHERED WAISTLINES多片裙GORED SKlRTS楔形褶裥裙PEGGED SKIRT WITH PLEATS裹叠式瀑布褶裙DRAPED WRAP SKIRT WITH A CASCADE育克裙SKIRTS WlTH YOKES多层裙TIERS 褶裥PLEATS三角插片GODETS裹叠式裙WRAP SKIRT圆裙、腰褶裙与瀑布褶花边裙CIRCLES，PEPLUMS，AND CASCADES裙摆不齐的裙SKIRTS WITH UNEVEN HEMLINES裙子的设计变化SKIRT DESlGN VARfATIONS14 袖子Sleeves概述lNTRODUCTION 袖克夫SLEEVE CUFFS 帽状袖CAP SLEEVES无省道袖样板DARTLESS SLEEVE PATTERN 适合低袖山的袖窿MODIFYlNG ARMHOLE TO REDUCE SLEEVE CAP EASE泡泡袖PUFF SLEEVES 圆弧形口袖ClRCULAR HEMLINE SLEEVES花瓣袖PETAL SLEEVES灯笼袖LANTERN SLEEVES入肩帽袖SLEEVES WITH EXTENDED CAPS羊腿袖LEG一0F-MUTTON SLEEVES垂荡褶袖COWL SLEEVES婚礼服袖WEDDING SLEEVES款式多变的袖子SLEEVE VARlATlONS WITH PATTERNS降低袖窿的袖子SLEEVES WITH LOWERED ARMHOLE主教袖原型BASlc BlSHOP SLEEVES夸张的主教袖EXAGGERATED B I SHOP SI EEVE15 连肩袖、插肩袖、落肩袖、大袖窿袖Kimono，Raglan，Drop Shoulder,and Exaggerated Armholes概述——与上衣相连的袖子INTRODUCTION TO SLEEVE-BODlCE COMBINATIONS连肩袖原型BASlC KIMON蝙蝠袖原型BASlC DOLMAN一片式连肩袖ONE-PIECE COMBINATIONS连肩袖上衣的基本样板KIMONO TORSO FOUNDAT 1ON 连袖装KIMONO DRESS土耳其长袍——设计3 CAFTAN-DESIGN 3腋下有插角布的连肩袖服装KIMONO WITH GUSSETS插肩袖RAGLAN SLEEVE插肩袖设计与样板变化RAGLAN DESIGN AND VARIATlONS落肩袖DROP SHOULDER夸张袖窿的袖子EXAGGERATED ARMHOL ES16 纽扣、纽孔与贴边Buttons，Buttonholes，and Facings纽扣与纽孔BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES贴边FACINGS17 衩口与口袋Plackets and Pockets衩口PLACKETS口袋POCKETS索引Index